Jim declares Kathmandu is "India lite". He thinks it is more organized overall in Kathmandu than India and not so much obvious grinding poverty. Plus, he indicated that the Indian roads are full of potholes, pedestrians, dogs and bicycles. Kathmandu is a sprawling city surrounded on all sides by mountains and full of energy and attacks all your senses. Quite a drive through parts of Kathmandu that most tourists will never see. Some shanty metal huts by a small river that is basically an open sewer full of raw sewage and smells that way. Not sure how everyone navigates around this city as there is no grid system and very few traffic lights. In some key intersections that are police directing traffic.
Very hot today. Our driver seems competent and doesn't hit anyone. Our first stop is the KOPAN MONASTERY on the top of a hill near where Dorjee lives. It is fairly new and beautiful. There is a security guard at the entrance. Many young red-robed monks. This place is a huge complex. Many gardens, ponds, art, grass areas, buildings around the extensive grounds. We first walk around the perimeter. High on the hill and away from the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu. Serene and peaceful just like a Buddhist retreat should be. A large temple in the middle and huge stupa. Dorjee informs me that foreign Buddhists have funded most of this. A group of 20 something Americans are taking a meditation class on the lawn from another American. The daily maintenance for this place must be expensive. We take our shoes off to enter the temple and Dorjee performs his Buddhist rituals. Back outside and meet up with our driver/car.
Young monks creating art on the driveway at the entrance to the Kopan Monastery.
Gigantic stupa with many ornate and expensive touches.
Lots of vivid colours.
Love the characters and the craftsmanship.
Jim relaxing on the chairs and table that look like they have been sculpted from an existing tree through the concrete floor. It is all faux design.
Good precepts for any place.
Off we drive to Dorjee's place which is about five minutes away. He owns a relatively new three storey apartment and rents out the first floor to a tenant. Lots of room on the two floors and nicely appointed Nepalese furniture. Given the uphill location of his place, Dorjee and his family must be living an upper middle class lifestyle so doing very well. He is very deserving. We eat outside on his patio and enjoy the warmth of another hot day in Kathmandu.
Dorjee's impressive apartment.
Dorjee and his wife Chotti. The amount of food for lunch is too much, but easily the best meal we have had the entire time in Nepal! Cucumber salad, rice, chicken and spinach. Plus, steamed chicken momos and a tasty complementary sauce. Beer provided, but I decline based on my over-consumption the night before.
Part of the lunch that Dorjee, his wife and daughter prepared for Jim and I. Both very gracious and generous hosts. Pretty cool to be at an actual Nepalese home.
Our next destination is the famous SHREE BOUDHANATH STUPA. Remember when you enter and then see the stupa, you walk around in a clockwise direction. All Buddhists do this.
The streets are crazy with traffic and I take a video as I cross the street using my phone:
The red bucket contains Tibetan salt. I purchase some for Lana based on her request. To seal the plastic bag the store owner melts wax onto the opening for a perfect seal. Pretty impressed. The salt was super cheap by North American standards. Jim purchases some as well.
Lots of sellers on the perimeter of the giant stupa.
To me the buildings surrounding the stupa look a bit like an old European plaza.
Same sellers, but you can see how a superior camera like Jim's provides much better photos.
We somehow meet up with our driver in the street. There are so many traffic gridlocks that eventually we jump out of the cab and walk into our Thamel neighbourhood with Dorjee. I buy a new face mask for the pollution. This one is more comfortable. Jim is on a spending spree and finds a beautiful Pashmina sweater for Tarlika.
When we return to the Nirvana Garden, Dorjee jumps on his motorcycle to return home. One easy observation is that no matter where we go on our trek or in Kathmandu, Dorjee knows many people. Jim and I return to our second floor rooms in the newer wing. We leave our doors open as we are across from each other. Power up our iPhones and about 4:45 pm outside walking south to Durbar Square. In trying to enter Durbar Square from the common northern entrance we are stopped and asked to pay admittance fee. Forget it! We navigate around the eastern side streets and lanes and end up on the southern side and no hassle admittance. The entrance fee "is for tourists only." I was here two weeks ago with Wolfgang.
Getting darker now and we decide to grab a place to sit and simply watch the flow of humanity beneath us. Very difficult to identify a Nepalese person based on skin colour and other factors. This country is made up of diverse groups; Indians, Sherpas, native Nepali, Asians etc. Jim finds a beautiful ring for Tarlika at Durbar Square. Getting very dark now and on the way back to our hotel, I take a wrong street and for a while we are somewhat lost, but we both have a general idea where we need to go. Find our way back by heading west on a side street and then north. We are hungry now so find a decent looking place called Rama's Kitchen & Restaurant.
Like many businesses in the Thamel area in that you enter on the ground floor and find the establishment is actually up the stairs. Nobody else is there! I order Indian food and Jim orders Italian. My tandoori chicken is too dry and the garlic naan OK. My palak paneer wasn't great. About halfway through our meal a group of Chinese tourists shows up. By 8 pm, we are back to our rooms. On the way back, Jim finds a purple woollen sweater for Tarlika. I have a hot bath and send some more email pics. Power up my iPhone and organize my Friday with Dorjee. Play some songs on my MacBook. Lana (London) and I FaceTime and lights out by 10:30 pm. Meeting with Jim tomorrow for breakfast at 0800.
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