Friday, April 3rd in Kathmandu (Last Day)

Today is the last day of my adventure in Nepal. My plane leaves at 11:15 pm.

Another blue sky sunny and warm day in Kathmandu. Dogs barking before 0630 and construction begins at 0700. I attempt to check-in online again with China Southern Airlines, but my verification code is rejected again. Very frustrating...Meditate for 30 minutes and shower afterwards.

I have 3560 Rupees in my wallet and a $USD20 bill that Jim gave me. This will be a long day in Kathmandu given I won't be picked up by Dorjee to be taken to the airport until 9 pm. I head out for breakfast at Mero Nepali Kitchen again. Dorjee texts me with a new pickup time with his motorcycle at 10:00 (one hour earlier). Scrambled eggs with bacon/onion plus brown toast with peanut butter for 200 Rupees -- about $3CDN. Purchase an International Tribune newspaper for 20 Rupee. Dorjee arrives on his motorcycle about 10:00. I am pretty excited about getting the chance to be on the back of a motorcycle in the scary traffic of Kathmandu.

Some clouds at a higher altitude so not so hot this morning. Wow, what an experience riding behind Dorjee. Avoiding pedestrians, vehicles, bicycles by weaving in and out. Stop then accelerate over and over. I have my smaller black face mask on for the pollution. Some trucks and buses belch heavy thick black smoke from their exhausts. Dorjee is a careful driver who picks his spots to speed up. On a motorcycle you can navigate around vehicles pretty easy. Lots of horns honking -- that is a constant noise in Kathmandu.

Dorjee on his motorcycle.

In about 30 minutes, we reach Patan Durbar Square at Lalitpur http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patan_Durbar_Square. Dorjee drops me off and will meet me here in an hour. It is 500 Rupee for tourist entrance and you get a pass to hang around your neck. A young Nepali guy approaches me to offer his guide services. His name is Anil Rana. He shows me his credentials as an authorized tour guide and he is a student at a local Tibetan art school. I negotiate the guide price to 500 Rupee -- down from the original 1000 Rupee.

This complex is an ancient Royal palace and associated religious buildings. The buildings date from the 16th and 17th Centuries. Some renovations are occurring. He explained that since early days this area has been a haven for artists. Explanations and history about each building from Anil.  

Anil Rana my tour guide.

 Patan Durbar Square.

Patan Durbar Square.

Patan Durbar Square.

We walk down some busy side streets to the Buddhist Hiranya Varna Mahavihar "Golden Temple". Another 50 Rupee entrance fee for tourists only. This temple dates to the 12th Century and much of the huge Buddha in the middle is gold-plated. Golden colour and a long chain for the symbolism of ascension to heaven. Two younger Buddhist monks live here. A group of Chinese tourists is being led by a Chinese Buddhist monk.

Small sculpture at the Golden Temple.

Anil takes me to a couple of places which are set up to suck money from tourists. One is a Tibetan art place for Mandala posters, then a place that sells healing bowls and a couple of other Nepali cultural shops. I am tactful each time explaining that I am not interested in their produtcts. Eventually, back to the Royal Palace entrance and its beautiful inner courtyard. Very much like Durbar Square in Kathmandu.

I update my journal and Dorjee shows up on time. We find a restaurant on the rooftop of a building nearby. Given we have arrived by 12 Noon, there is a limited menu. We both order lemon sodas and a sandwich. They cut off the crust of the sandwich bread. The glass arrives with lemon concentrate in the bottom and a can of refreshingly cold soda water. So common in Kathmandu to dine on the rooftop terraces. 

Our next stop will be the Swayambhunath Temple  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swayambhunath or as it is better known the Monkey Temple. We are not far from this well known tourist spot. At the bottom of this very tall and imposing hill we are met by a number of monkees. To get to the Buddhist temple, stupa and other religious buildings you walk up the very long and sometimes steep steps to the top of the hill. At the very top the tourist entrance fee is collected at 200 Rupee. Along the stairs are sellers of almost everything you can think of. This hill must be the highest point in the city? Many foreign and local tourists here. Long steep stairwell back to the bottom. It is really hot again in the city.

 Yes, it is a monkey at the Monkey Temple.

 View from the top of the hill of one part of the sprawling and smoggy Kathmandu.

Up top near one of the temples.

 The large Stupa at the top of the hill.

Another angle on the Stupa. The eyes are on all four sides and signify that Buddha can see all.

Back on Dorjee's motorcycle and he drops me off at the Nirvana Garden hotel by 2 pm. Many thanks to Dorjee for all his hospitality. I sit in the garden and update my journal. I decide to get a massage and head to Nectar Spa. Jim had used this place a couple of days ago and recommended it. I decide to go for the two hour deep tissue massage. You enter at the ground floor entrance and then up a set of stairs to the second floor. I negotiate the price to 3000 Rupee or around $40CDN. Reception area is clean and tidy. I go into the massage room, strip and put on a speedo like cover for my groin and wear a cloth robe. The girl comes into the room and places my feet in a warm water basin and my feet get cleaned. Face down on the table to start and then finish face up. Music from the street music vendor in the street below. Plus, serenaded by the usual honking horns and people talking below. The massage is very relaxing and she works deep into my muscles. 

I realize towards the end of my massage that I actually don't have 3000 Rupees. Yikes! They do accept the $20USD bill for 2000 Rupee so that works out. I have a good chat with the owner and the manager. As well, I confirmed I will go online when I return to Vancouver and review their spa on Trip Advisor. As we are talking there is a torrential downpour of rain outside! By the time I get outside there is no more rain. Sun is coming out and some owners are sweeping the puddles from the front of their shops into the street. I return to the hotel to update my journal and check on my Rupee currency which is now at 715 Rupees and $5CDN. 

By 6 pm, I am at the Yak Restaurant. I can afford dinner here. I ate here a couple of weeks ago with Wolfgang. I order the steamed chicken momos, pineapple lassi and a garlic naan. Weird combo, but suitable for my last meal in Kathmandu. I get my own booth. Way too much food though. The total is 400 Rupees ($6CDN), including tip. Return to hotel and decide to get into the security room with all the suitcases and luggage to change into my travelling clothes. 

I power up my iPhone at the computer terminal. Send all my photo emails using my nCell SIM card. Dorjee and the driver arrive about 8:40 pm. Get all my luggage and off to the airport. At this time, there is darkness in the streets and few pedestrians or other vehicles. Once at the airport, you get into a lineup to physically enter the terminal. Then your luggage is placed on a belt and through a machine. Not sure what they are checking for though? My Southern Airlines counter is at the end and only two agents. Check in two bags and keep my day pack. I confirm my seats are towards the front of the plane so all is good. I am seated in front of security before 9:30 pm. To get into the security line on level two you can't line up until one hour before your scheduled flight departure. There are five flights out of here around the same time. You queue for the shuttle bus that takes you to your plane located on the tarmac. We lift off at 11:45 pm. I am in seat 37K and there are no other passengers in my row so I can lie across the three seats and rest.

My flight is to Guangzhou, China. I have an eight hour layover and then fly at 2 pm local time to Vancouver YVR. This becomes such a long return day/trip home. The actual time in the air is about 13 hours. I will never organize a red-eye flight to start and then long layover. Oh well, I arrive safely home on Saturday morning!

Thursday, April 2nd in Kathmandu

Awake around 0700 so my first good sleep in more than two weeks. I am meeting Jim at 0800 to get breakfast at a small place around the corner from our hotel. The tables are outside in a nice garden which is appreciated on another beautiful warm day in Kathmandu. This is a city of 2.5 million people - shocking I know. At Mero Nepali Kitchen restaurant they have a real flush toilet and toilet paper!

No pictures today.

Very pleasant morning and our North American style breakfast is pretty decent. Eggs, toast, peanut butter ... We decide to spend the morning wandering around our Thamel neighbourhood and getting some shopping in. I am not planning on spending any money, but I do find some stuff to buy for myself and family. It is very difficult to walk these narrow and crowded streets without being approached to buy goods, get a taxi, visit the store etc. All these shop owners are trying to get you inside. Negotiating is common in most shops. I prefer negotiating and my strategy is to offer a lower price then negotiate upwards and if we can't come to a price that I like then I walk away. On many occasions the shop owner will leave their store and confirm my asking price.

Purchases:

• An Everest Base Camp (EBC) black tee shirt
• two long-sleeved cotton shirts with great designs and excellent quality material
• a tee shirt for my granddaughter Georgia
• Cloth map of the Everest region for framing as part of my memento of the adventure
• Himalayan pink salt for Lana
• two books for me
• two tea containers

Jim is in a buying mood and is a generous guy. He buys two authentic Gurka knives for Tarlika's brothers. These knives are beautiful and expensive. We make a couple of trips to the hotel so we aren't carrying around this expensive stuff. Jim's luggage is in my room. We are hungry so stop at the Gokarna Restaurant. We have a table outside in the shade. Only one other diner when we arrive. The meal is decent and Jim is enjoying his beer. We get to talking with the manager. I FaceTime with Lana in London. 

Eventually, we are back in the street for some more shopping and then back to my room to unload all our purchases. Jim is being picked up by Dorjee at 6:30 pm for a taxi ride to the airport for his flight back to Abu Dhabi and then New York. We obtain a quote from a trekking store to compare what we paid for our trekking and discover we got a pretty good deal from Dorjee. We decide to relax in the garden beside our hotel and just chat. We order dinner and my meal comes very late while Jim returns to my room to get a shower and clean up. Still a nice night. Dorjee arrives early and we say our goodbyes as Jim is off to the airport.

Back to my room and the power plugs won't work except for the one next to the bathroom counter. This is pretty typical. I am being stymied by China Southern Airlines online check-in system. I am hoping to check-in in advance and pick my seats. No luck. I wisely decide to get my packing done. This will take more than an hour. The porter backpack quickly fills up with my sleeping back and two large bags of dirty laundry. In my suitcase is my trekking boots as they will be safer there. I will pack my bathroom stuff tomorrow and have a change of clothes ready for when I leave for the airport at 9 pm tomorrow. I FaceTime with Lana in London again. Power goes off in the hotel for at least five minutes. I spend time deleting emails in my junk folder (>600). My last night in Kathmandu. Dorjee is picking me up around 11 am tomorrow on his motorcycle.

Wednesday, April 1st in Kathmandu

Yes, it's April Fools Day in Nepal! I am awake be 0700. Comfortable bed and sleep. By 0800 the construction workers are making lots of noise next door. I update my journal outside on the balcony and try to stay in the shadow. The top of my ears are peeling and my red nose peeling as well. Very early in the morning, but nice and hot. Dorjee is picking us up around 11:30 and taking us to his place for lunch and some sightseeing. Jim has had breakfast on his own and a 90 minute full body massage by the time I see him before Dorjee's pickup. I moisturize my face. Dorjee is waiting in the garden and we sit and chat. We get around to giving Dorjee his $USD tip. He disappears for a while to round up a car/driver for the remainder of the afternoon. After 12 pm we are in a small vehicle (Dorjee owns a motorcycle) and off into the crazy traffic of Kathmandu.

Jim declares Kathmandu is "India lite". He thinks it is more organized overall in Kathmandu than India and not so much obvious grinding poverty. Plus, he indicated that the Indian roads are full of potholes, pedestrians, dogs and bicycles. Kathmandu is a sprawling city surrounded on all sides by mountains and full of energy and attacks all your senses. Quite a drive through parts of Kathmandu that most tourists will never see. Some shanty metal huts by a small river that is basically an open sewer full of raw sewage and smells that way. Not sure how everyone navigates around this city as there is no grid system and very few traffic lights. In some key intersections that are police directing traffic.

Very hot today. Our driver seems competent and doesn't hit anyone. Our first stop is the KOPAN MONASTERY on the top of a hill near where Dorjee lives. It is fairly new and beautiful. There is a security guard at the entrance. Many young red-robed monks. This place is a huge complex. Many gardens, ponds, art, grass areas, buildings around the extensive grounds. We first walk around the perimeter. High on the hill and away from the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu. Serene and peaceful just like a Buddhist retreat should be. A large temple in the middle and huge stupa. Dorjee informs me that foreign Buddhists have funded most of this. A group of 20 something Americans are taking a meditation class on the lawn from another American. The daily maintenance for this place must be expensive. We take our shoes off to enter the temple and Dorjee performs his Buddhist rituals. Back outside and meet up with our driver/car.

 Young monks creating art on the driveway at the entrance to the Kopan Monastery.

 Gigantic stupa with many ornate and expensive touches.

 Lots of vivid colours.

 Love the characters and the craftsmanship.

 Jim relaxing on the chairs and table that look like they have been sculpted from an existing tree through the concrete floor. It is all faux design.

Good precepts for any place.

Off we drive to Dorjee's place which is about five minutes away. He owns a relatively new three storey apartment and rents out the first floor to a tenant. Lots of room on the two floors and nicely appointed Nepalese furniture. Given the uphill location of his place, Dorjee and his family must be living an upper middle class lifestyle so doing very well. He is very deserving. We eat outside on his patio and enjoy the warmth of another hot day in Kathmandu. 

Dorjee's impressive apartment.

 Dorjee and his wife Chotti. The amount of food for lunch is too much, but easily the best meal we have had the entire time in Nepal! Cucumber salad, rice, chicken and spinach. Plus, steamed chicken momos and a tasty complementary sauce. Beer provided, but I decline based on my over-consumption the night before.

Part of the lunch that Dorjee, his wife and daughter prepared for Jim and I. Both very gracious and generous hosts. Pretty cool to be at an actual Nepalese home.

Our next destination is the famous SHREE BOUDHANATH STUPA. Remember when you enter and then see the stupa, you walk around in a clockwise direction. All Buddhists do this.

The streets are crazy with traffic and I take a video as I cross the street using my phone:

The red bucket contains Tibetan salt. I purchase some for Lana based on her request. To seal the plastic bag the store owner melts wax onto the opening for a perfect seal. Pretty impressed. The salt was super cheap by North American standards. Jim purchases some as well.

Lots of sellers on the perimeter of the giant stupa.

 To me the buildings surrounding the stupa look a bit like an old European plaza.

Same sellers, but you can see how a superior camera like Jim's provides much better photos.

We somehow meet up with our driver in the street. There are so many traffic gridlocks that eventually we jump out of the cab and walk into our Thamel neighbourhood with Dorjee. I buy a new face mask for the pollution. This one is more comfortable. Jim is on a spending spree and finds a beautiful Pashmina sweater for Tarlika. 

When we return to the Nirvana Garden, Dorjee jumps on his motorcycle to return home. One easy observation is that no matter where we go on our trek or in Kathmandu, Dorjee knows many people. Jim and I return to our second floor rooms in the newer wing. We leave our doors open as we are across from each other. Power up our iPhones and about 4:45 pm outside walking south to Durbar Square.  In trying to enter Durbar Square from the common northern entrance we are stopped and asked to pay admittance fee. Forget it! We navigate around the eastern side streets and lanes and end up on the southern side and no hassle admittance. The entrance fee "is for tourists only." I was here two weeks ago with Wolfgang.

Getting darker now and we decide to grab a place to sit and simply watch the flow of humanity beneath us. Very difficult to identify a Nepalese person based on skin colour and other factors. This country is made up of diverse groups; Indians, Sherpas, native Nepali, Asians etc. Jim finds a beautiful ring for Tarlika at Durbar Square. Getting very dark now and on the way back to our hotel, I take a wrong street and for a while we are somewhat lost, but we both have a general idea where we need to go. Find our way back by heading west on a side street and then north. We are hungry now so find a decent looking place called Rama's Kitchen & Restaurant.

Like many businesses in the Thamel area in that you enter on the ground floor and find the establishment is actually up the stairs. Nobody else is there! I order Indian food and Jim orders Italian. My tandoori chicken is too dry and the garlic naan OK. My palak paneer wasn't great. About halfway through our meal a group of Chinese tourists shows up. By 8 pm, we are back to our rooms. On the way back, Jim finds a purple woollen sweater for Tarlika. I have a hot bath and send some more email pics. Power up my iPhone and organize my Friday with Dorjee. Play some songs on my MacBook. Lana (London) and I FaceTime and lights out by 10:30 pm. Meeting with Jim tomorrow for breakfast at 0800.

Day 13 Trek (March 31st)

This is our last official day of trekking in Nepal. Not raining this early in the morning. Birds tweeting and the constant sound of the river below. Breakfast at 0700.

Start of Day 13 of our trek from Phakding (2640 m) to Lukla (2886 m). Note we actually go up in elevation today.

As we trek the birds are chirping and various stray dogs are following Dorjee. The occasional yak wandering on the trail. Lots of beautiful flowers and blossoms! No wind and lots of fresh air. Given the weather hasn't been good in Lukla there are very few trekkers coming in our direction as they simply can't get into Lukla by plane. Their only option would be more expensive helicopters. Cloudy along our trek so no chance of seeing the mountains. Eventually, some sun so I get to put on my sunglasses. The temperature is ideal. We have two very long and steep ascents before reaching Lukla. We take off our warmer stuff. With the surrounding forest, we could be in Canada hiking.

 Cute Sherpa children who are always curious of the trekkers. The young girl approached me to offer a small flower and we take their pic.

 Turning the prayer wheel in a clockwise direction.

We come to a small village for a rest and some tea. I ask Dorjee whether we can give our US$ cash tip directly to Hem our porter. He says that is fine. Dorjee then adds that he is giving Hem a $50USD tip and that he has already told Hem that we will be giving Hem $50US cash each. I was surprised by this statement. I never encountered being told what a tip was and then that this expectation had already been communicated. I/we really like and trust Dorjee so we go along with this expectation. This is a huge amount of money in Nepal. Plus, we were charged $10USD per day by Dorjee for Hem's services. I am not happy, but eventually become less irate. We arrive at Paradise Lodge in Lukla around 10:30 am after a three hour trek.

This is the same lodge we started at on day one of our trek. Dorjee shows us to our room which is called the "Rheinhold Messner" room. Huge room with lots of space and our own bathroom/toilet. The plan is to fly out of Lukla the following morning at 0700. It is still cloudy around the airport with only the occasional blue patch. I take off all my stuff and unpack some of my belongings for the night. Within about 30 minutes, Dorjee re-appears and says we need to be ready to catch a plane in case he can get that organized. It is promising to get out of Luka this afternoon rather than spending the night here. With the uncertain weather best to get out earlier as tomorrow we might be caught here.

I re-pack and we meet Dorjee in the dining room for a quick lunch and cups of hot chocolate. Dorjee and Hem collect our stuff and take it to the small airport. The lodge is located right beside the heliport so its extremely noisy here. We finish our lunch quickly and then walk up, across the top of the perimeter and then down to the airport entrance. Luggage at departures and we are given our tickets for Tara Air. We get through security although it is generous being described as security. Not even a pat down. The official asks whether my backpack has cigarettes or knives or booze? There are four airplane parking spots. Still cloudy around the airport.

When a plane does arrive everyone rushes to the windows to see what airline and what spot of four does it park as that will determine if you are getting out this afternoon. For some reason, Nepal is the country of Pringles and Snickers bars? Outrageous prices at the airport, but that is common around the world. Test cricket is being shown on the tv. Many people pacing on the brown and white checkered tile floor. Orange plastic seats against the walls - right out of the 70s. 

Finally, about 2:45 pm (3 hours later) our Tara Air plane arrives and we load the small aircraft quickly and within about five minutes we are in the air. We hurtle down the runway towards the cliff face and then just before the runway end we lift off. Below us are many small villages with terraced farms on the various hills. As well, you can see many rhododendron trees in full red foliage. Very good flight with minimal turbulence. We are close to the cockpit and can see the instrumentation panels. About 30 minutes later we have landed in Kathmandu and parked near domestic arrivals. 

 View from the small airplane as we return to Kathmandu from Lukla.

View of one part of Kathmandu from our airplane. Lots of apartment buildings.

Sunny and hot in smoggy Kathmandu. Shuttle bus to the terminal and then baggage claim outside. The usual chaos and taxi drivers looking for customers. Dorjee finds a small cab and Jim and I are in the back seat with our packs. Pretty squished, but happy to be safely back in civilization. The ride to Nirvana Garden was interesting as all cars, motorcycles and other vehicles constantly jockeying for position in the heavy traffic. 

It wasn't uncommon for our driver to go on the wrong side of the road to get ahead. Horns constantly honking. So good to be warm again! Given we are arriving one day ahead of time we need to get a room for each of us organized. No problem and for our usual rate of $30USD we get a room each. We get our suitcases that have been safely stored in the back room and up to our rooms quickly. Room 213 for me and 212 across the hall for Jim. I have a balcony overlooking the garden below. I unpack my stuff as I am here for three nights.

The garden oasis at Nirvana Garden hotel (located in the southwest corner of Thamel neighbourhood).

My first priority is to get in the shower to get clean and then shave my beard. My Kathmandu clothes have been in my suitcase for about two weeks now. Aah, fresh underwear. The room has two single beds with a real toilet and toilet paper! Send some emails and around 5:30 pm Jim knocks on the door. I have my MacBook powered up and powering my iPhone. We venture out into the chaos and noise of Thamel. I get to an ATM for some Rupee. Jim finds some skin moisturizer and a mouth shield for me for the smog and pollution. 

 Before the shave. Yes, my nose is damaged by the sun, wind and cold.

After the shave.

My first face shield.

We decide to get to a rooftop terrace restaurant. Helena's Restaurant fits the bill and it is up about six stories. Easy ascent for us experienced trekkers! I order a Wiener Schnitzel and we drink our celebratory beer. After our dinner we find Paddy Foley's Irish Pub for live music and more beer. Five person band that played cover tunes and different musical genres. A couple of 27 year old male Canadian trekkers join us for stories and laughs. They didn't make it to the peak of Kala Patthar, but did get to EBC. We decide to head across the street to another live music venue. The place was packed with tourists and some young well dressed Nepali. Jim orders an apple-flavoured hookah for our table (no drugs in it). You put the small pipe to your mouth and inhale the apple tasting smoke and blow it out. The water bubbles as you inhale and it can leave you a little light headed. 

We stumble out around midnight and fortunately our hotel isn't too far away. The heavy gate is locked, but quickly it is opened by a hotel employee. We are back in our rooms and ready for a good sleep in a real bed.

Day 12 Trek (March 30th)

Today we will drop 800 metres in elevation from Namche Bazaar to Phakding, although the trekking is not all downhill. High clouds today and no sun. Warmer in the morning at this lower elevation (3400 metres) than the last days.

As usual, I will need to ask for napkins at breakfast to blow my nose. Yesterday, we had power so Jim could power his phone in our room instead of paying for it. Left the lodge around 0810 as Dorjee's breakfast arrived late. The trekkers always get served first and then the guides get served when all trekkers have finished their meals.

Start of Day 12 trek from Namche Bazaar (3440 m) to Phakding (2640 m)

 Last look at Namche Bazaar!

 On the trail to Phakding. Note the stone steps and the suspension bridge covered in prayer flags in the distance.

 Another ass train loaded with supplies heading for Namche Bazaar or some other village in the Everest region. These asses are pretty sure-footed as well. Today, there were so many ass trains on the trail.

It is still overcast, but great temperature for trekking as it is not too hot. To start, mostly downhill and past small villages and many cute puppies. This part of Nepal has so many stray dogs. Going downhill down rocks and rock steps isn't as easy as it sounds. Lots of pressure on your knees and upper thighs. Interesting to walk down these steep declines that gave us some much grief walking up on day two of our trek. At the first major and high suspension bridge we were in a queue to wait for porters carrying incredibly wide loads so impossible to cross in the opposite direction. We make decent time and encounter some stiff uphill climbs after we get down to the river level (260 metres difference). Many trekkers going towards EBC in the opposite direction. We hope the weather improves for them because with the overcast skies there are no views of the peaks. 

We wonder how the older and heavier trekkers will make out with the steep uphill climbs? I think it is the parable of the tortoise and the hare with the slow and steady getting the job done. I am always amazed at the number of trekkers who use two hiking poles. They put in so much effort leaning on both poles and exerting pressure downwards. We make it to Benkar village and stop for some tea and rest. By the time we are enjoying our tea we get a sprinkling of rain so we head inside to keep dry. When we head outside to continue our trek it is time to put on our rain-proof outerwear and backpack rain guards. This is the first time we have encountered rain. We are not too far from Phakding now.

Walking through the forest in the rain isn't ideal, but it reminds me how lucky we have been with the incredible weather conditions and views. We end up on five suspension bridges today. I am so much better with the suspension bridges. We arrive at Phakding at 12:20 and into the same room at the Namaste Lodge. Our outerwear is soaked inclusive of our pants. We have an ensuite bathroom. 

 Yes it is spring time in Nepal as well.

 Beautiful rhododendrons!

 This is a small rhododendron tree!

Besides the incredible scenery in the Everest region of the Nepalese Himalayas are the unique and colourful flowers/bushes.

Time for lunch in the Namaste dining room. The lady owner (friends of Dorjee) brings us a booze (powerful and alcoholic apple cider) and continues to re-fill our glasses. We have a very interesting and long talk with Dorjee about his life and past. All good. We get to talking to the husband of the lady owner who speaks good english and has travelled to America many times and has a son in Colorado. After, Dorjee heads for a nap and I discover my iPhone has not charged so the owner takes it into the restaurant for a proper charging.

Across the way is the Trekkers lodge that he rents to a young couple who have two very young children. Jim decides to offer him a beer and we sit around the wood-fired stove and talk with this older Sherpa. Two beer later, the old guy leaves and we get out of our wet pants to dry. A Spanish couple who finished EBC get to talking with us. I update the journal. Very toasty around the stove so we are warm. WWF is on the wide-screen tv before we leave.

Dinner in the lodge dining room at 6:30 pm. Jim loves the sauce used on his potatoes. Earlier, the owner provided us with potatoes and popcorn to eat with the alcoholic drink. It is 7 pm and still raining. Still warmish though compared to earlier days in our trek at the higher elevations. I play a game of cribbage with Dorjee and then head across the way to another stove that is warming up the Sherpa guides. Learned that when you die the Buddhist monks spend 49 days saying mantras on behalf of the departed. 

Jim's mileage today:  7.1 miles and 17,598 steps. 

Day 11 Trek (March 29th)

It is my daughter Renée's birthday today! Much warmer last night than previous nights on our trek. Up a little after 0600 to a blue sky sunny morning in Deboche. The inside of the window is dewy, but not icy like previous nights. We use the Steripen for our water supply for the day. We don't need to dress as warm for the remainder of the trek so more clothes go in the porter's bag. We depart at 0730 and Hem is with us.

Start of Day 11 of our trek from Deboche (0730) to Khumjung (Dorjee & I) and then Namche Bazaar. 

The start of this trekking day is a long and slippery ascent through the forest towards Tangboche. A good fitness test early in the morning. We reach Tangboche and take some more pics. Then the steep downhill ridge through more forest, rock, debris and then towards the surging river below. Excellent walking through the forest and it is hot again. Strip off our warmer clothes. Much easier going downhill, but harder on the knees. 

 Rolling hills and then the peaks of the Everest region.

 In case you get lost....   ;-)

You can never get tired of the incredible scenery found in the Everest region. This pic is behind Tangboche.

We arrive at Phunki Taga (next to the river and suspension bridge) about 0845 for a snack of a delicious brownie each and take in the warmth and scenery from the patio. Leave Phunki Taga about 0915 for the long and steep climb up the mountain towards Namche Bazaar. We arrive at Kyangjuma for another rest/snack about 10:30. We run into a number of trekkers heading towards EBC. Also, many yak trains and porters carrying ridiculously heavy loads (see below). 

Another example of the incredible loads these porters carry! I always get out of their way. Men at work! You can see the village of Kyangjuma in the distance.

Rest stop at Kyangjuma located on a ridge just north of Namche Bazaar. Dorjee gets us a snack called "Apple Jack" which is very much akin to apple strudel. What a fantastic view here from the patio and more warm sun. We really savour these moments of warm sun, fantastic views and good company.

This is where we decide to diverge. Jim treks with Hem to our lodge in Namche Bazaar. This takes them about 75 minutes.  

Meanwhile, Dorjee and I trek to the large village of Khumjung. I want to see the 500 year old YETI scalp which I had seen on a documentary tv program a couple of months previous. I am really excited about this! I do believe Yetis, Abominable Snowmen or Sasquatch do exist and are Homonoids. The alleged yeti scalp was DNA tested as human and not animal.

Jim's mileage today:  7 miles and 17,283 steps. If you add in Dorjee and I getting to Khumjung and then to Namche Bazaar probably another 4-5 miles?

To get to this village which is located far above Namche Bazaar, we take a shortcut through Kyangjuma and then a long uphill 45 minute climb. We arrive at a restaurant in Khumjung for a refreshment and leave our backpacks at the restaurant. The monastery is only about a further 10 minute walk away and located on the outer edges of the town. This is a large agrarian village set against a large hill. Dorjee hasn't been to this village for a long time and we struggle to find a path that will take us there. There are no main streets in this village but lots of paths along the stone fences. We do navigate our way to the orange coloured monastery, but it is locked. No problem as Dorjee phones the number on the sign and some time later an older man shows up carrying many sets of keys. Unlocks the many locks and we are inside the beautiful inner monastery courtyard.

The last door opens up into the prayer room with many Buddha statues. Dorjee does his Buddhist rites and I provide a donation into the small slot. The container is opened and there is the alleged scalp with dark reddish black hair. The hair is nothing like I have seen before. Pretty cool! I take some pics and then my phone dies.

 Khumjung Monastery which holds the Yeti scalp under lock and key. Yes, the monastery has prayer flags on all four sides.

 Close up of the alleged Yeti scalp parted down the middle.

 The container which is locked.

The Nepali word "Gompa" means monastery.

I really appreciated Dorjee taking me to see the yeti scalp. Another highlight from our trekking that I will never forget. We find our way back to the restaurant/lodge in the bright sunshine. Lunch is waiting. Fried potatoes with some vegetables and my favourite Tibetan bread. The trek to Namche Bazaar is about 65 minutes of effort. We walk by the local high school where boys are kicking around a small ball like a soccer ball. We then begin a long uphill ascent on stone stairs to the distant top of a tall ridge. Once at the top, we are in a pasture-like area and then at a spot that overlooks Namche Bazaar from very far up!

A very steep decline down to Namche Bazaar on dirt and rock steps. I won't miss these rocks and tricky steps and potential injury. A little after 2 pm and still warm and sunny. Jim is in his sleeping bag relaxing. Same room as last time with the adjoining bathroom and toilet. We open up the drapes and let the hot sun into the room. Relax on our beds shirtless and talk. Eventually, Dorjee knocks on the door to take our order for dinner. Rooster crowing away at 4 pm! Jim has boosted the lodge wifi for free as he got the password last time we stayed here. My iPhone is on zero battery so is being powered up to a full charge. As the afternoon progresses it does get gradually cooler in our room.

The milk tea I love is called DHUDH CHIYA in Nepalese.

We head to the dining room and the portable gas heater. Dorjee is there already getting warmed up. My iPhone is charging for 200 Rupee. We get to talking with an Aussie and his British Army buddy. Dinner is OK. My nCell doesn't work so I pay 500 Rupee for wifi access. Jim is in bed by 7:30 pm. The dining room is toasty so I update my photos via email and text with Lana in London. She is having a high tea. At 8:30 pm I head for our room.