As usual, I will need to ask for napkins at breakfast to blow my nose. Yesterday, we had power so Jim could power his phone in our room instead of paying for it. Left the lodge around 0810 as Dorjee's breakfast arrived late. The trekkers always get served first and then the guides get served when all trekkers have finished their meals.
Start of Day 12 trek from Namche Bazaar (3440 m) to Phakding (2640 m)
Last look at Namche Bazaar!
On the trail to Phakding. Note the stone steps and the suspension bridge covered in prayer flags in the distance.
Another ass train loaded with supplies heading for Namche Bazaar or some other village in the Everest region. These asses are pretty sure-footed as well. Today, there were so many ass trains on the trail.
It is still overcast, but great temperature for trekking as it is not too hot. To start, mostly downhill and past small villages and many cute puppies. This part of Nepal has so many stray dogs. Going downhill down rocks and rock steps isn't as easy as it sounds. Lots of pressure on your knees and upper thighs. Interesting to walk down these steep declines that gave us some much grief walking up on day two of our trek. At the first major and high suspension bridge we were in a queue to wait for porters carrying incredibly wide loads so impossible to cross in the opposite direction. We make decent time and encounter some stiff uphill climbs after we get down to the river level (260 metres difference). Many trekkers going towards EBC in the opposite direction. We hope the weather improves for them because with the overcast skies there are no views of the peaks.
We wonder how the older and heavier trekkers will make out with the steep uphill climbs? I think it is the parable of the tortoise and the hare with the slow and steady getting the job done. I am always amazed at the number of trekkers who use two hiking poles. They put in so much effort leaning on both poles and exerting pressure downwards. We make it to Benkar village and stop for some tea and rest. By the time we are enjoying our tea we get a sprinkling of rain so we head inside to keep dry. When we head outside to continue our trek it is time to put on our rain-proof outerwear and backpack rain guards. This is the first time we have encountered rain. We are not too far from Phakding now.
Walking through the forest in the rain isn't ideal, but it reminds me how lucky we have been with the incredible weather conditions and views. We end up on five suspension bridges today. I am so much better with the suspension bridges. We arrive at Phakding at 12:20 and into the same room at the Namaste Lodge. Our outerwear is soaked inclusive of our pants. We have an ensuite bathroom.
Yes it is spring time in Nepal as well.
Beautiful rhododendrons!
This is a small rhododendron tree!
Besides the incredible scenery in the Everest region of the Nepalese Himalayas are the unique and colourful flowers/bushes.
Time for lunch in the Namaste dining room. The lady owner (friends of Dorjee) brings us a booze (powerful and alcoholic apple cider) and continues to re-fill our glasses. We have a very interesting and long talk with Dorjee about his life and past. All good. We get to talking to the husband of the lady owner who speaks good english and has travelled to America many times and has a son in Colorado. After, Dorjee heads for a nap and I discover my iPhone has not charged so the owner takes it into the restaurant for a proper charging.
Across the way is the Trekkers lodge that he rents to a young couple who have two very young children. Jim decides to offer him a beer and we sit around the wood-fired stove and talk with this older Sherpa. Two beer later, the old guy leaves and we get out of our wet pants to dry. A Spanish couple who finished EBC get to talking with us. I update the journal. Very toasty around the stove so we are warm. WWF is on the wide-screen tv before we leave.
Dinner in the lodge dining room at 6:30 pm. Jim loves the sauce used on his potatoes. Earlier, the owner provided us with potatoes and popcorn to eat with the alcoholic drink. It is 7 pm and still raining. Still warmish though compared to earlier days in our trek at the higher elevations. I play a game of cribbage with Dorjee and then head across the way to another stove that is warming up the Sherpa guides. Learned that when you die the Buddhist monks spend 49 days saying mantras on behalf of the departed.
Jim's mileage today: 7.1 miles and 17,598 steps.
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