Our flight is scheduled for 6:15 am weather permitting. Dorjee arrives with the car and off we go in the dark to the airport. The airport is surrounded by barbed wire fencing - not sure why? We get in a long queue of fellow trekkers with backpacks and bags. At a stand still and eventually the line slowly moves forward.
The first airport security is putting each bag through a large scanner machine. Pretty laid back here. I am pretty sure this machine is strictly a formality and may not even work. Nobody is checking anyway. I am carrying my orange sleeping bag pouch. There is a sea of people inside the domestic terminal. Dorjee organizes our bags for tagging and ensuring they all go on our small plane. Really most of this is pandemonium and I am glad we have a guide to ensure everything works out. Get in another security line with one line for males and the other shorter line for females. All bags go through another scanner, but nobody is checking the scanners. Your boarding pass is stamped and now you are inside the domestic terminal close to the gates. You get herded onto the appropriate bus and then to your plane waiting on the tarmac.
18 seater plane with twin props so very noisy. They provide cotton for self-made ear plugs if needed. Dorjee is carrying my sleeping bag.
This is our Tara Air plane to Lukla. The other trekkers are Japanese with their own guide. It is supposed to be between 35-40 minutes flight.
Appears that today is a great day. While it is very smoggy over Kathmandu we get above the smog to find the beautiful blue sky sunshine day. On the left of our plane (north) are the foothills of the Himalayas. Already, these mountains are snow peaked and craggy. Both pilots are wearing very hip leather jackets - stereotype? As we get closer to Lukla the surrounding mountains get more majestic. We are in the Himalayas! Some turbulence. Lots of clouds around and some small villages below.
Lukla airport is known as the most dangerous airport in the world. Check out this video from YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqgZvb37NX0 Yes, this was our successful landing as well. You drop in elevation between the mountains/trees and then suddenly dip down and onto the short landing strip which is quite a steep uphill grade. For good reasons!
Lukla airport looking back toward the arrivals.
The terminal is tiny, but practical. I check out the bathroom and discover it is an asian toilet so instant constipation. ;-) We grab our bags and then walk with Dorjee to Paradise Lodge and Restaurant located right beside the airstrip. Time for breakfast and to meet our two porters. One porter is for Wolfgang and then Jim and I share the other porter.
Dorjee (guide) on your left, Hem Bahadur Tamang in the middle is Jim/my porter and on your right is Ekta Bahadur Tamang being Wolfgang's designated porter. Tamang is the name of their Sherpa tribe. Both these young guys are small, but very strong and wiry. They don't look too happy right now, but they begin to smile more as we travel.
From Lukla airport our day one trek takes us to Phakding which is actually at 2640 metres so about 200 metres lower than Lukla. This is the only time during our entire trek when our destination is lower in elevation. The three of us try to place what we need for the day in our day packs and then the porters carry the rest. This works for two of us, but Jim insists on carrying more. Last summer Jim summited Mount Kilimanjaro in Africa so is experienced in elevation trekking. He will come to regret carrying so much in his day pack - foreshadowing.
The three of us are pretty eager to get going on this adventure of a lifetime. Regrettably, Wolfgang can only spend about five or six days in total, so he won't be carrying on the entire way with Jim and I. Work commitments for SAP in Mumbai, India. Hey, one of us is retired so no worries about work commitments.
Three (Jim, Wolfgang and Randy) eager trekkers before we start. Already, we are amazed at the scenery.
We begin our trek around 7:45 am and arrive in Phakding around 11:05 am. Jim's measurement has 6.26 miles and 15582 steps from Lukla to Phakding.
Before leaving Lukla, we purchase some toilet paper rolls at prices that are much higher than Kathmandu. Along the trail we frequently stop and take pictures. The trekking today is pretty much up and down constantly, but more downhill than uphill. You always walk on the left of any Buddhist religious structures. Always turn the prayer wheels clockwise. Many other trekkers on the trails with us. It is colder than forecasted, although by 9 am it has really warmed up. This is forest so very green and much like Canada. Lots of small villages that have dining areas and rooms.
We find a place to stop and drink lemon tea halfway to our destination.
While I am scared of heights and not a fan of suspension bridges these suspension bridges are very stable.
A very short yak train.
Example of a typical Everest region suspension bridge. Very stable.
At one point during our day one trek a yak coming towards Dorjee briefly charges him and he sidesteps trouble. Wow!
If the clouds obscure the sun then the temperature drops so can't take off too many layers.
EBC trekking in March and April is the second most popular time behind October and November. While it is colder in the winter months the views will be better. Our experience during our trek is the weather is fantastic so we really lucked out.
Many of the houses along the trekking trail have corrugated tin roofs. Something to remember is that there are NO roads or vehicles between Lukla and EBC. Food, building materials, water etc. comes in via asses, yaks, porters or on a rare occasion and very expensively a jet helicopter.
The houses are made mostly of stone and property is separated by stone fences. Many yak and ass trains on the trail. A lot of yak and ass manure on the rocky trail. You need to keep your head down to ensure you aren't stepping in poop and not twisting your ankles/knees on the rocks/angles.
This is a MANI: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mani_stone. You will find these along the trail and always stay left. The writing are mantra that a Buddhist will say when going by this rock cairn.
Another Mani.
Larger Mani on the trail.
Day one scenery! Already we are having great views of the Himalayas. The weather has been fantastic.
In Phakding, we are staying at Namaste Lodge. We are treated to lunch outside on their patio in the direct sunlight - so warm! Slate table top and cushioned seats. Windy at times and hot on the skin. I will be lucky not to get burned regardless of sunblock. Majestic craggy snow peaked mountain tops right in front of us. Dorjee takes our orders and goes inside to chat with the owners. No wifi right now as not enough people have arrived. There will be wifi in Namche Bazar he promises. Lemon tea appears to be a favourite. The air is fresh and clean!
My egg fried rice order for lunch. Very good!
We have the afternoon to kill so we find the Sherpa Liquid Bar. They play Reggae music to start and serve us cans of Everest beer. The beer is not cheap at about $5CDN each. We really enjoyed the music and had a good chance to relax and talk. Eventually, they play Red Hot Chili Peppers music from their "Blood, Sugar, Sex, Magic" CD. We are all fans of music. As the afternoon progresses it begins to cool off. The bar provides free wifi, but only one of us can be on the wifi at any time.
During our trek on day one, we were stopped by a Nepali on the trail asking for donations for "trail repair." Guide and trekkers to pay, but no evidence of any trail repair. Even these countries have people who think extorting others is good business.
Jim and I meet a grandmother and her grandson (who looks like a girl - man that is one quite little boy!). Check out the photo below. We got speaking with the owners so that was fun. They own Himalaya Adventure Guest House.
Back in our room before dinner. Jim and I share our room. Very basic, although in this place we have our own bathroom consisting of a real toilet and a shower that doesn't work.
Our shared room in Phakding. Not much room, but big enough.
Jim is snuggled in his very warm sleeping bag. I call it the Mummy Bag. Yes, he is very comfortable in warm in that bag - I am envious. ;-) Our rooms come with pillows (hooray!) and usually blankets or duvet covers as it gets very cold at nights in these elevations. You won't find toilet paper in their bathrooms though.
While in North America we have rhododendron bushes, in Nepal and in the Everest region they have rhododendron TREES and FORESTS.
Yes, turn this clockwise and it will purify your soul. I turn a lot of these during our trekking adventure in the Everest region. The Sherpas are Buddhists.
Time for dinner around 6:30 pm. We can hear the river running down below in the valley. The walls in this guest house are pretty thin so noise travels easily. We all have hot meals. Other trekkers are staying here and on their way to EBC. We leave around 7:30 pm. For some reason my nCell phone carrier isn't working here.
We are back in our room and it is damn cold! Jim can fall asleep very easily so before I know it he is out cold in his sleeping bag. I purchased a steri-pen at Mountain Equipment Coop to purify the water and eliminate any germs or bacteria. Another application of technology that is useful. We will be meeting for breakfast at 0700 so we can get an early start on our day two trek. From this night onward, I will be wearing a long-sleeve cotton shirt and fleece sweater to bed with fleece pants and large woollen socks. It is pitch black outside.
I take my first 1/2 tab of 250 mg Diamox http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetazolamide to help with adapting to the high altitude and avoid high altitude sickness and its symptoms. In addition, prior to leaving for Nepal, I took Dukarol https://www.dukoralcanada.com/when-to-take-dukoral to minimize any chances of getting diarrhea or other illness during the trek.
Time to turn out the dim light and get some sleep as tomorrow will be a huge trek in terms of duration and elevation climb.
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