Start of Day 8 trek from Lobuche to Gorakshep and onto EBC! To begin our trek to Gorakshep by walking through the obvious remains of a glacial deposit comprised of large boulders, stones and ice/snow. Some stopping for passing yak trains. Quickly, we are over 5000 metres and any uphill steps are slower as the oxygen is much more limited. The scenery is incredible.
Mount Lobuche is behind us early into our Day 8 trek.
We have a very steep climb at the end of the valley and then more ascending through boulder fields. Stone steps, slippery ice, steep cliffs and snow are constant threats to falling and injury. A few rest stops given the difficulty of walking at this high elevation. Difficult two hour trek in the high altitude (over 5000 metres or 16,500 feet). Along this part of the trek we run into Dorjee's younger brother who is also a guide (Wangchhu Lama). Closer to Gorakshep we can see EBC in the far distance. We are not too far now. It takes about two hours to Gorakshep.
On the way to Gorakshep. Yes, the Himalaya peaks seem almost close enough to touch. They are even more stunning this close. Difficulty to always look given you need to watch your footsteps on the treacherous trails.
We arrive in Gorakshep (the closest village to EBC) and eat breakfast so we have some energy for the remaining trek to EBC, Again, another fantastic blue sky warmish day in the high Himalayas. For breakfast at our lodge, Snowland Highest Inn Solukhumbu (5180 metres) I have Tibetan break with peanut butter. In the dining room, you can see your breath. It is literally freezing as we keep all our clothes on. The next step will be EBC estimated at between 90 and 120 minutes trekking distance. Both Jim and I are healthy so it is looking good.
Very busy Helipad at Gorakshep. Many supplies delivered by helicopter to waiting porters.
Jim's measurement for trek to Gorakshep from Lobuche: 2.65 miles and 6,930 steps.
We leave Gorakshep around 0930 and arrive at EBC at 11:30 am! We use only one backpack as we will be returning to Gorakshep to stay the night. Dorjee carries our daypack so we both fairly light. The weather is holding at blue skies and no clouds. The initial part of the trek is down a wide shallow path full of snow and mud so constantly trying to find a good place to step. Then a gradual ascent that takes us to a ridge. The rest of the ridge is through left over boulders and rocks from a massive and receding glacier. Always looking for stones and boulders for a stable step. Some long and steep ascents and then shorter descents over rocky debris.
Then a long high ridge with good footing. At the end of the ridge you descent and then up and down rock and boulder scree to EBC! We could see some minor snow avalanches on the peaks and at first hear the crack sound and then the snow coming down. EBC is around 5300 metres so quite a high elevation.
Yak trains heading for EBC. These yaks are so sure-footed.
One of the ridges we follow to get to EBC and then back.
On the way to EBC which you can see in the far distance lower left side.
Another pic showing EBC in the distance and the trek there and surrounding glacier and rocks/debris.
Trekking to EBC. Gives you an idea of the environment around EBC.
Stopping for pics in advance of EBC posing. Mount Everest is over my left shoulder!
Jim posing on the way to EBC. Right over Jim's head is Mount Everest!
What a difficult trek into EBC.
The Khumbu glacier/icefall where all Everest expeditions begin their ascent. Many climbers die in the Khumbu icefall from small avalanches and crevasses.
There is the peak of Mount Everest! Always framed by its sister mountains.
EBC!!!
EBC posing at the traditional rock cairns and prayer flags.
Pretty happy with our success!
Pretty sure the stone says it all!
At the foot of another mighty Himalayan peak.
Khumbu icefall adjacent to EBC.
Randy and Dorjee heading down to the expedition tents location.
Another pic of Jim, Dorjee and myself at the EBC rock cairns.
Jim and I - sorry, but I can't get enough pics of this.... ;-)
Yes, we made it!
The Khumbu icefall.
My iPhone video at EBC
Everest expedition tents always set up on rocks given during the spring thaw everything will sink.
Great pic of an Expedition tent with the backdrop of the first part of the ascent.
An Everest Expedition kitchen tent that Dorjee and I will occupy and be served tea.
Yes, the yaks are here as well. To deliver needed supplies to EBC and then return for another load.
Outside an EBC tent.
An incredible highlight experience for me! Sitting in an actual Everest Base Camp expedition kitchen tent being served Nepali milk tea in a traditional tin cup by a Sherpa. Plus, sitting with Dorjee. Wow!
Everest expedition tents always set up on rocks given during the spring thaw everything will sink.
Normally, the EBC trekkers are not allowed down into the tent/expedition area. It was OK with Dorjee to take me down. The tents and supplies are being set up by the various Sherpas. The expedition members have not arrived yet as Everest climbing season is in April and May. While almost all the supplies, tents, equipment etc. arrives by yeti, ass and human porters a small percentage does arrive via helicopter at EBC. Kinda funny, but on the hike back to Gorakshep we ran into our porter Hem who had a load he was carrying into EBC.
While Dorjee and I head down to the tents and Khumbu icefall Jim stays at the EBC rock cairns to relax and soak in the scenery and experience. Regrettably, my nCell SIM card is not working at EBC so I can't call family or send email pics. Also, my battery is low on my cellphone. We spend about 45 minutes at EBC. One very beautiful aspect are the incredible glacier lakes carved out of the sheer ice by nature. No pics though. One of the reasons we left so early this morning was to get to EBC before the clouds moved in and obscured the peaks. We accomplished this, therefore, great pictures.
Time to trek back to Gorakshep. We arrived fairly early so now encountering other trekkers trying to make it to EBC. It is such a great feeling to be able to say to other trekkers "we are on our way back." It really has been a physical, mental and emotional feat. A number of fellow trekkers have not made it. One example was a German lady who was about 20 minutes from EBC and she had to turn back due to illness and no chance of continuing on another day. This has been a long day filled with adrenalin and Jim "hits the wall..." We make it back to Gorakshep with many rest stops to help Jim in about two hours. Jim is exhausted and immediately heads straight to our room and is in his sleeping bag sleeping in moments. A long and needed nap/rest.
Jim is "done like dinner" after today's trek to EBC and back. That hand-crafted bamboo walking stick has worked well.
I head to the dining room for some Tibetan bread with honey and a one litre bottle of mineral water. Dorjee joins me. The nCell SIM card works here so time for me to start sending out email pictures. Within a few minutes of checking emails my iPhone battery has died. I am on my own updating my journal and it is close to 4 pm. Time to see what Jim is up to? Hmm, still sleeping.
Jim's measurements for trek from Gorakshep to EBC and back: 4 miles and 10,391 steps.
I meet with Dorjee to provide our dinner order. Like all trekking lodges you get your order in before 5 pm. I head outside to take in the views as there is still sunshine. I give my iPhone to Dorjee for a one hour charge of 350 Rupee. Spend time watching a female yak team lead tie up her yaks for the night. There is a rope on the ground weighted down at both ends. There are smaller tethering ropes every couple of feet on the main rope on the ground. She ties each tether to a different yak and really has to yell at the yaks to get them to obey her.
Our dinner tonight will be earlier at 6 pm given we need to be downstairs tomorrow at 0530. We will be ascending the famous Kala Patthar (Kala Patthar, meaning 'black rock' in Nepali and Hindi, is a notable landmark located on the south ridge of Pumori in the Nepalese Himalayas.) for its incredible views. The viewing point is located at 5545 metres! From the lodge at Gorakshep this will be a rise of 400 metres elevation straight up.
HIGH ALTITUDE OBSERVATIONS:
HIGH ALTITUDE OBSERVATIONS:
- Not sure of the medical reasons, but both Jim and I have noticed that our appetites have decreased the higher in elevation
- We know that hydration at these altitudes is critical, yet we don't feel thirsty
- For myself, I have had some very weird dreams at these higher altitudes
- Sleeping is harder for me and even rolling over in bed results in the need to gasp for air and I can feel my pulse rate increasing
- For certain, you do not have the same urges to walk faster and trekking is more tiring
Jim is still asleep and the room is freezing. I have scored three extra blankets to survive tonight. One I put underneath my sleeping bag on top of the mattress and the other two on top of my sleeping bag. Guaranteed to be much below zero tonight. Dinner and then Dorjee and I played crib. Charged up my phone to 75%. Texted Lana before going to bed (before 8 pm). Jim is fast asleep already, but left the room light on so I can find everything. When you turn out the lights it is pitch black. It's cold in here and the bathroom down the hallway's light doesn't work so its the flashlight again.
What an incredible eventful day today! We reached our goal of EBC, lots of great pictures, weather, no injuries and lived to tell about it.
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