Another blue sky sunny and warm day in Kathmandu. Dogs barking before 0630 and construction begins at 0700. I attempt to check-in online again with China Southern Airlines, but my verification code is rejected again. Very frustrating...Meditate for 30 minutes and shower afterwards.
I have 3560 Rupees in my wallet and a $USD20 bill that Jim gave me. This will be a long day in Kathmandu given I won't be picked up by Dorjee to be taken to the airport until 9 pm. I head out for breakfast at Mero Nepali Kitchen again. Dorjee texts me with a new pickup time with his motorcycle at 10:00 (one hour earlier). Scrambled eggs with bacon/onion plus brown toast with peanut butter for 200 Rupees -- about $3CDN. Purchase an International Tribune newspaper for 20 Rupee. Dorjee arrives on his motorcycle about 10:00. I am pretty excited about getting the chance to be on the back of a motorcycle in the scary traffic of Kathmandu.
Some clouds at a higher altitude so not so hot this morning. Wow, what an experience riding behind Dorjee. Avoiding pedestrians, vehicles, bicycles by weaving in and out. Stop then accelerate over and over. I have my smaller black face mask on for the pollution. Some trucks and buses belch heavy thick black smoke from their exhausts. Dorjee is a careful driver who picks his spots to speed up. On a motorcycle you can navigate around vehicles pretty easy. Lots of horns honking -- that is a constant noise in Kathmandu.
Dorjee on his motorcycle.
In about 30 minutes, we reach Patan Durbar Square at Lalitpur http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patan_Durbar_Square. Dorjee drops me off and will meet me here in an hour. It is 500 Rupee for tourist entrance and you get a pass to hang around your neck. A young Nepali guy approaches me to offer his guide services. His name is Anil Rana. He shows me his credentials as an authorized tour guide and he is a student at a local Tibetan art school. I negotiate the guide price to 500 Rupee -- down from the original 1000 Rupee.
This complex is an ancient Royal palace and associated religious buildings. The buildings date from the 16th and 17th Centuries. Some renovations are occurring. He explained that since early days this area has been a haven for artists. Explanations and history about each building from Anil.
Patan Durbar Square.
We walk down some busy side streets to the Buddhist Hiranya Varna Mahavihar "Golden Temple". Another 50 Rupee entrance fee for tourists only. This temple dates to the 12th Century and much of the huge Buddha in the middle is gold-plated. Golden colour and a long chain for the symbolism of ascension to heaven. Two younger Buddhist monks live here. A group of Chinese tourists is being led by a Chinese Buddhist monk.
Small sculpture at the Golden Temple.
Anil takes me to a couple of places which are set up to suck money from tourists. One is a Tibetan art place for Mandala posters, then a place that sells healing bowls and a couple of other Nepali cultural shops. I am tactful each time explaining that I am not interested in their produtcts. Eventually, back to the Royal Palace entrance and its beautiful inner courtyard. Very much like Durbar Square in Kathmandu.
I update my journal and Dorjee shows up on time. We find a restaurant on the rooftop of a building nearby. Given we have arrived by 12 Noon, there is a limited menu. We both order lemon sodas and a sandwich. They cut off the crust of the sandwich bread. The glass arrives with lemon concentrate in the bottom and a can of refreshingly cold soda water. So common in Kathmandu to dine on the rooftop terraces.
Our next stop will be the Swayambhunath Temple http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swayambhunath or as it is better known the Monkey Temple. We are not far from this well known tourist spot. At the bottom of this very tall and imposing hill we are met by a number of monkees. To get to the Buddhist temple, stupa and other religious buildings you walk up the very long and sometimes steep steps to the top of the hill. At the very top the tourist entrance fee is collected at 200 Rupee. Along the stairs are sellers of almost everything you can think of. This hill must be the highest point in the city? Many foreign and local tourists here. Long steep stairwell back to the bottom. It is really hot again in the city.
Another angle on the Stupa. The eyes are on all four sides and signify that Buddha can see all.
Back on Dorjee's motorcycle and he drops me off at the Nirvana Garden hotel by 2 pm. Many thanks to Dorjee for all his hospitality. I sit in the garden and update my journal. I decide to get a massage and head to Nectar Spa. Jim had used this place a couple of days ago and recommended it. I decide to go for the two hour deep tissue massage. You enter at the ground floor entrance and then up a set of stairs to the second floor. I negotiate the price to 3000 Rupee or around $40CDN. Reception area is clean and tidy. I go into the massage room, strip and put on a speedo like cover for my groin and wear a cloth robe. The girl comes into the room and places my feet in a warm water basin and my feet get cleaned. Face down on the table to start and then finish face up. Music from the street music vendor in the street below. Plus, serenaded by the usual honking horns and people talking below. The massage is very relaxing and she works deep into my muscles.
I realize towards the end of my massage that I actually don't have 3000 Rupees. Yikes! They do accept the $20USD bill for 2000 Rupee so that works out. I have a good chat with the owner and the manager. As well, I confirmed I will go online when I return to Vancouver and review their spa on Trip Advisor. As we are talking there is a torrential downpour of rain outside! By the time I get outside there is no more rain. Sun is coming out and some owners are sweeping the puddles from the front of their shops into the street. I return to the hotel to update my journal and check on my Rupee currency which is now at 715 Rupees and $5CDN.
By 6 pm, I am at the Yak Restaurant. I can afford dinner here. I ate here a couple of weeks ago with Wolfgang. I order the steamed chicken momos, pineapple lassi and a garlic naan. Weird combo, but suitable for my last meal in Kathmandu. I get my own booth. Way too much food though. The total is 400 Rupees ($6CDN), including tip. Return to hotel and decide to get into the security room with all the suitcases and luggage to change into my travelling clothes.
I power up my iPhone at the computer terminal. Send all my photo emails using my nCell SIM card. Dorjee and the driver arrive about 8:40 pm. Get all my luggage and off to the airport. At this time, there is darkness in the streets and few pedestrians or other vehicles. Once at the airport, you get into a lineup to physically enter the terminal. Then your luggage is placed on a belt and through a machine. Not sure what they are checking for though? My Southern Airlines counter is at the end and only two agents. Check in two bags and keep my day pack. I confirm my seats are towards the front of the plane so all is good. I am seated in front of security before 9:30 pm. To get into the security line on level two you can't line up until one hour before your scheduled flight departure. There are five flights out of here around the same time. You queue for the shuttle bus that takes you to your plane located on the tarmac. We lift off at 11:45 pm. I am in seat 37K and there are no other passengers in my row so I can lie across the three seats and rest.
My flight is to Guangzhou, China. I have an eight hour layover and then fly at 2 pm local time to Vancouver YVR. This becomes such a long return day/trip home. The actual time in the air is about 13 hours. I will never organize a red-eye flight to start and then long layover. Oh well, I arrive safely home on Saturday morning!
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