Start of Day 13 of our trek from Phakding (2640 m) to Lukla (2886 m). Note we actually go up in elevation today.
As we trek the birds are chirping and various stray dogs are following Dorjee. The occasional yak wandering on the trail. Lots of beautiful flowers and blossoms! No wind and lots of fresh air. Given the weather hasn't been good in Lukla there are very few trekkers coming in our direction as they simply can't get into Lukla by plane. Their only option would be more expensive helicopters. Cloudy along our trek so no chance of seeing the mountains. Eventually, some sun so I get to put on my sunglasses. The temperature is ideal. We have two very long and steep ascents before reaching Lukla. We take off our warmer stuff. With the surrounding forest, we could be in Canada hiking.
Cute Sherpa children who are always curious of the trekkers. The young girl approached me to offer a small flower and we take their pic.
Turning the prayer wheel in a clockwise direction.
We come to a small village for a rest and some tea. I ask Dorjee whether we can give our US$ cash tip directly to Hem our porter. He says that is fine. Dorjee then adds that he is giving Hem a $50USD tip and that he has already told Hem that we will be giving Hem $50US cash each. I was surprised by this statement. I never encountered being told what a tip was and then that this expectation had already been communicated. I/we really like and trust Dorjee so we go along with this expectation. This is a huge amount of money in Nepal. Plus, we were charged $10USD per day by Dorjee for Hem's services. I am not happy, but eventually become less irate. We arrive at Paradise Lodge in Lukla around 10:30 am after a three hour trek.
This is the same lodge we started at on day one of our trek. Dorjee shows us to our room which is called the "Rheinhold Messner" room. Huge room with lots of space and our own bathroom/toilet. The plan is to fly out of Lukla the following morning at 0700. It is still cloudy around the airport with only the occasional blue patch. I take off all my stuff and unpack some of my belongings for the night. Within about 30 minutes, Dorjee re-appears and says we need to be ready to catch a plane in case he can get that organized. It is promising to get out of Luka this afternoon rather than spending the night here. With the uncertain weather best to get out earlier as tomorrow we might be caught here.
I re-pack and we meet Dorjee in the dining room for a quick lunch and cups of hot chocolate. Dorjee and Hem collect our stuff and take it to the small airport. The lodge is located right beside the heliport so its extremely noisy here. We finish our lunch quickly and then walk up, across the top of the perimeter and then down to the airport entrance. Luggage at departures and we are given our tickets for Tara Air. We get through security although it is generous being described as security. Not even a pat down. The official asks whether my backpack has cigarettes or knives or booze? There are four airplane parking spots. Still cloudy around the airport.
When a plane does arrive everyone rushes to the windows to see what airline and what spot of four does it park as that will determine if you are getting out this afternoon. For some reason, Nepal is the country of Pringles and Snickers bars? Outrageous prices at the airport, but that is common around the world. Test cricket is being shown on the tv. Many people pacing on the brown and white checkered tile floor. Orange plastic seats against the walls - right out of the 70s.
Finally, about 2:45 pm (3 hours later) our Tara Air plane arrives and we load the small aircraft quickly and within about five minutes we are in the air. We hurtle down the runway towards the cliff face and then just before the runway end we lift off. Below us are many small villages with terraced farms on the various hills. As well, you can see many rhododendron trees in full red foliage. Very good flight with minimal turbulence. We are close to the cockpit and can see the instrumentation panels. About 30 minutes later we have landed in Kathmandu and parked near domestic arrivals.
View from the small airplane as we return to Kathmandu from Lukla.
View of one part of Kathmandu from our airplane. Lots of apartment buildings.
Sunny and hot in smoggy Kathmandu. Shuttle bus to the terminal and then baggage claim outside. The usual chaos and taxi drivers looking for customers. Dorjee finds a small cab and Jim and I are in the back seat with our packs. Pretty squished, but happy to be safely back in civilization. The ride to Nirvana Garden was interesting as all cars, motorcycles and other vehicles constantly jockeying for position in the heavy traffic.
It wasn't uncommon for our driver to go on the wrong side of the road to get ahead. Horns constantly honking. So good to be warm again! Given we are arriving one day ahead of time we need to get a room for each of us organized. No problem and for our usual rate of $30USD we get a room each. We get our suitcases that have been safely stored in the back room and up to our rooms quickly. Room 213 for me and 212 across the hall for Jim. I have a balcony overlooking the garden below. I unpack my stuff as I am here for three nights.
The garden oasis at Nirvana Garden hotel (located in the southwest corner of Thamel neighbourhood).
My first priority is to get in the shower to get clean and then shave my beard. My Kathmandu clothes have been in my suitcase for about two weeks now. Aah, fresh underwear. The room has two single beds with a real toilet and toilet paper! Send some emails and around 5:30 pm Jim knocks on the door. I have my MacBook powered up and powering my iPhone. We venture out into the chaos and noise of Thamel. I get to an ATM for some Rupee. Jim finds some skin moisturizer and a mouth shield for me for the smog and pollution.
Before the shave. Yes, my nose is damaged by the sun, wind and cold.
After the shave.
My first face shield.
We decide to get to a rooftop terrace restaurant. Helena's Restaurant fits the bill and it is up about six stories. Easy ascent for us experienced trekkers! I order a Wiener Schnitzel and we drink our celebratory beer. After our dinner we find Paddy Foley's Irish Pub for live music and more beer. Five person band that played cover tunes and different musical genres. A couple of 27 year old male Canadian trekkers join us for stories and laughs. They didn't make it to the peak of Kala Patthar, but did get to EBC. We decide to head across the street to another live music venue. The place was packed with tourists and some young well dressed Nepali. Jim orders an apple-flavoured hookah for our table (no drugs in it). You put the small pipe to your mouth and inhale the apple tasting smoke and blow it out. The water bubbles as you inhale and it can leave you a little light headed.
We stumble out around midnight and fortunately our hotel isn't too far away. The heavy gate is locked, but quickly it is opened by a hotel employee. We are back in our rooms and ready for a good sleep in a real bed.
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